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AFKULA MONASTERY - Hüseyin KÖKTÜRK Archaeologist

 

    

Past the Kaya Village, on the way to the Gemiler Cove where the road enters a thick forest there is a branch to the right; straight on goes down to Gemiler Cove. Take the forest road to the right which comes to an end after 1 km. You should leave your vehicles here and cover the rest of the way on foot.  From that point and by following the painted stones within the forest, Çevrik Kayalıklar (Afkule) can be reached in about 20 minutes.

       At Çevrik Kayalıklar, once you are out of the forest, the panorama overlooking the sea is overwhelming. Every time I go there as I try to place myself in the location, knowing that the Datça Cape is on my right to the north and the Island of Rhodes is ahead to the west, I tend to feel rather insignificant. The exact geography of this special place fades into insignificance in the beauty and power of the surroundings. I am convinced that the monk who built the monastery here shared my feelings. Here, you cannot feel like the 'lord of all he surveys', on the contrary, as suggested by the name of the location, (af  forgiveness; Kule - turret/tower) the surrounding rocks enfold you, leaving only one direction in sight. The everyday world is left behind and a different atmosphere reigns. If you ask me, this is the spot representing what Mevlana meant when he said, “The thirsty will find the water”. The monk must have felt this thirst when he decided to build the monastery here.

      

     According to the legend, the monastery was built by a monk named Elefterios, using simple the tools he acquired as a beggar, he carved the rocks for the rest of his life  it must have been a severe trial.

     The monastery is reached by primitively built steps carved into the rocks, it is on two floors. The ground floor consists of a room which is as close to a rectangular shape as the rocks permitted. At the entrance to this room, there is a cistern on the left to hold the rain water that is collected on the terrace of the second floor. There is an interior staircase to reach the upper floor.

     

      There are two rooms on the second floor. The first one, reached by the steps is like a hall opening up to another room. To the east and symmetrical with the door there is an apse (a semicircular recess with a domed roof). The main, square-shaped nave has a keeled roof. The wall behind the nave is painted in blue, probably as a reflection of the sea.

      The buildings lower down were constructed after the death of the monk by his followers. There are two rooms for daily life and a cistern, not much different from the buildings at the Kaya Village. To the east of the cistern, the apse of a small chapel is discernable.  The frescos and the inscriptions on the apse are partially recognizable when the light permits. Although this area is very near the sea, steep rocks prevent a direct descent to the coast.

       Going out to the terrace and facing south you can notice an oval-shaped toilet adjacent to the building. Following the path for about 50 metres towards the south, you will find a cistern built into the rocks. It has an interesting natural structure and it maintains its function even today by collecting the water seeping through the rocks. In addition, the regular dripping of water has formed stalactites giving a beauty in harmony with the mystic atmosphere here. The lime carried by the water from the calcareous rocks has also caused the formation of a stalagmite in the form of elephant's foot in the cistern. The chapel adjacent to the cistern is largely demolished.

           

On the way back, as one leaves the monastery and the sea behind and enters into the forest, there are the ruins of another small chapel to the right. The apse and the roof are completely demolished although some portions of the walls are still standing. The chapel is contemporary with the buildings at Kaya Village.

 

 
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